Schiaparelli by Daniel Rosebery is everything that we need when it comes to couture. Why? Because he’s not afraid to take it there. This collection is called Phoenix for two reasons.
It honors Elsa’s gift for rebirth and also Daniel finds inspiration in the fact that he gives women the power to be reborn by wearing his clothes. As the show is called Phoenix, it is very fitting for Phoenix look to open the show. According to Daniel also, each look represents a specific emotion.
If you think about it, this look could embody anger or rage. It also could be seductiveness. What was impressive about this collection is that it started from sketches first.
No computers, iPhones, iPads were used for inspiration. They went into the books and researched everything that they wanted to know. That’s how we got this beautiful look.
As pointed out on X, there could have been a couple of artists that inspired this collection. Like the top part of this look could be inspired by this piece from Serge Lutens. The artist very likely inspired the headpieces also.
We also have this look which is one of my favorites from the whole collection. It could have been a reference to this look from 1951 by Elsa Schiaparelli. Another inspiration for the show was Anna Pavlova who was a Russian ballerina and she was often mistaken for Elsa Schiaparelli.
Daniel said that the lighting for the show was inspired by her. With all that being said, this is what couture in 2024 should look like. And if you’re wondering why everybody praises Daniel Roseberry, it’s because his work is damn good and no one can do it like him.
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